Once Around on a Bicycle
This is as far south as I will get on the trip, maybe ever. The Dunedin Airport on New Zealand's South Island is 29 Km south of the city of Dunedin (which means Edinburgh in Celtic). Traffic around the airport is a little less congested than Chicago's O'Hare.
Dunedin was founded and settled by Scottish immigrants during the 1840's. So, naturally, they designed their railway station in the Flemish Renaissance style. The two contrasting colored stones are sandstone and volcanic rock. The newly planted gardens in front of the station are on the Anzac Plaza, named for the troops who returned from WW I by train. ANZAC is the acronym for Australia New Zealand Army Corp, I think. Lots of highways and other public works in Australia and New Zealand are named Anzac. There's even a type of cookie called Anzac.
This picture was also taken in the Anzac Plaza. Notice the signpost in the back giving the distances to some cities, including Edinburgh (18,869 Km). Immigrants from Scotland spent three months at sea and rarely returned home. This place is about as far from Scotland as you could go. It was much easier to immigrate to America. You have to wonder why people did come here.
Baldwin Street in Dunedin is the steepest street in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records. It's so steep that the top two-thirds had to be paved in concrete. I cycled up to the end of the asphalt and stopped. I was told by a local that the view from the top is spectacular. I said I would take her word for it and left. There was still Mount Cargill to climb that day (see below). How would you like to deliver the mail to the house at the top of the street (Sysyphus Heights?) ? Mow the lawn? Collect the garbage? Plow the snow?
Immediately after Baldwin Street I began the 10 Km climb to the top of Mount Cargill (400 meters high). It used to be the main road north from Dunedin, but they've since built a motorway further inland that's not as steep. Unfortunately, bikes aren't allowed on motorways. The effort over Mount Cargill was rewarded by great views of the Dunedin Harbour and the Otago Peninsula. Not to mention a fun 10 Km descent on the other side.
This is typical of the places that I would stop for a snack in rural Australia and New Zealand. It would be the petrol station/supermarket/cafe/video store/post office for the town. The owner would usually be in the back watching soap operas or cricket when I pulled up. It's a far cry from a Wal*Mart, but it is one-stop shopping for the locals.
Oamaru is known as the "Whitestone City". Can you guess why? When they were making all of their money from gold, wool and mutton they built their public buildings from locally quarried sandstone. After the goldrush the town stopped growing. Tourists are now coming to town to see the neo-classical buildings, ride the steam train, shop for antiques, and watch some rare penguins come ashore every evening at dusk. I didn't catch the penguin show, but did enjoy my two days in Oamaru.
I came across this plaque, set in stone, on the side of Highway 1 near Timaru. It said that I was at 45 degrees south latitude, halfway between the South Pole and the Equator. Right next to it is a distance sign showing the South Pole 5011 Km away and the Equator 4990 Km away. That doesn't sound equidistant to me. Continental drift? Plate tectonics? Faulty rulers?
I though that I had seen the last of 30 foot tall animal sculptures when I left Australia. This Big Fish at Rakaia is either a salmon or trout according to my guidebook. It may not be exactly 30 feet tall, either. Instead of going to the effort of getting an accurate measurement, I'm just going to say that all roadside animal sculptures are 30 feet high. If they can play fast and loose with 45 degrees latitude, I can guesstimate the height of their stupid Big Fish.
This bridge between Dunsandel and Rakaia is the longest in New Zealand. I measured it at 1.75 Km long. Notice the less-than-generous shoulder on the road. This region is known for its narrow bridges according to my guidebook. Thankfully, the 25 drivers behind me were very patient. If I had to cross a bridge like this in the states, I would be swimming with the Big Fishes.
Christchurch is a very pleasant English city. The Avon River winds through the grid pattern of downtown streets. They have these flat-bottomed boats called 'punts' to take tourists up and down the river. I didn't try it because it looked like a couples thing.
I did ride the tram. It makes a loop around downtown Christchurch. For $US4 I was able to hop on and off at any stop during my three days in the city. The drivers give a running commentary on the sights along the route. Here it is going down Randolph Street (I think), the city's first pedestrian street (probably). The shopfronts were designed in the Spanish Provincial style (whatever that means). I learned a lot from those drivers.
This Anglican Cathedral is in the middle of Christchurch. There's a square in front of it with buskers, food kiosks, a Starbucks, and a large chess board. It's a nice place to sit and relax. When you're tired of relaxing (is that possible?) you can go into the cathederal, plop down $NZ4, and climb the 133 steps to the top of the steeple. The views in all four directions are impressive.
I saw this fur seal on the road to Kiakoura. It's a rugged coastline of black iron sand beaches and rocky outcrops. It's very popular with the seals. I could have tried to reach out and pet him, but I'm still very fond of my 10 fingers.
When I'm traveling through an awesome landscape like this, with beautiful mountains in the distance, all I can think is "God, I hope I don't have to climb over that."
Ferry service between the North and South Islands of New Zealand goes from Picton to Wellington across the Cook Strait. It takes about two hours. Most of that time is spent traveling at slow speed in the two protected harbours. That's just as well because the open waters between the islands can be rough.
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